Popularized in the United States during the 1980s, saltwater pools have continued to surge in popularity, with millions of salt pool systems now in operation.

Contrary to popular belief, a saltwater pool is not a chlorine-free pool. Pool salt water systems create their own chlorine by passing slightly salty water through two electrically charged metal plates inside of what's called the salt cell.

Through the process of electrolysis, salt (NaCl) and water (H~2~O), are converted into chlorine (Cl~2~), hydrogen (H~2~), and sodium hydroxide (NaOH), as the water passes through the energized salt cell.

When the chlorine molecule (hypochlorous acid, the same chemical produced by chlorine tablets and shock) is used up, it gets converted back to salt (NaCl), and the process can start again.

A saltwater pool is not necessarily better than a chlorine pool — because it is a chlorine pool. Salt pool systems create chlorine to kill bacteria, germs, and algae, and it's the same chemical produced by tablets, liquid, or granular chlorine.

Setting up a saltwater pool or converting your pool to a salt system involves more than just pouring salt in the pool. If you add salt without using a chlorine generator, then all you'll have is salty pool water.

But essentially, you just pour salt into the pool — a lot of salt. How much salt to add to the pool? To reach the initial salt level recommended by the salt system manufacturer (usually 2,400–3,200 ppm), you will need to add about 200 pounds of pure pool grade salt (NaCl), per 10,000 gallons of water. This dosage will get you to approximately 2,400 ppm salinity.

To calculate exactly how many bags of salt you'll need for your pool, use the following equation: 8.375 x Salinity Increase ÷ 100 = Pounds of salt per 10,000 gallons

Salt stays in the water, so you only need annual boosters to replace salt lost to backwashing or splash-out. You can use the equation above to figure out exactly how much salt to add to keep the pool salinity at an ideal level.

Installing a salt chlorine generator is also fairly straightforward. Most inground salt systems have a wall-mounted control box plugged into an electrical outlet, as well as an inline salt cell plumbed into the return line. The control panel allows you to dial in the desired amount of chlorine output, with indicators for water flow, temperature, and salt level. Salt chlorine generators for above ground pools often either hang on the pool wall or attach to the pool return for an even easier installation.

Turn on the chlorine generator. If the water temperature is above 60°F and water flow is sufficient, low voltage energy is applied to the salt cell. The cell then begins to produce chlorine until the desired chlorine output level is satisfied. Chlorine generators will turn themselves on and off as needed to create a consistent chlorine level. However, you still need to test your pool chlorine level regularly and adjust the output as needed.

There is very little difference in the day-to-day maintenance between salt pools and chlorine tablet pools. The biggest difference is that you’re not opening a chlorine bucket every week to fill the chemical feeder or floater. You still need to test and adjust your water balance and chlorine levels, you still need to use chlorine stabilizer, and may need other helper chemicals to maintain water quality.

There are some additional tasks that come with a saltwater pool, however. The energized plates of the salt cell attract calcium scale. Calcium deposits on the plates' metal surfaces over time, which ultimately reduces chlorine output and eventually damages the cell. Salt cells need to be cleaned regularly in a mild acid solution to dissolve the scale. Advanced inground salt systems are self-cleaning, accomplished by reversing the polarity to the salt cell, and sloughing off the scale, which is carried away by the water. However, even the most advanced salt cells can benefit from occasional cleaning to prolong their lifespan.

Salt is a corrosive mineral, and can damage soft travertine stone or stainless steel surfaces used on pool ladders and pool lights. Over time, salty water dragged off by swimmers can pit or erode soft stone surfaces on your pool deck. Sealing surfaces around the pool, along with regular cleaning for areas with low rainfall, can help protect soft surfaces from salt deposits. Pool ladders, lights, and other stainless steel items in the pool can also lose their luster as salt slowly oxidizes the steel. Sacrificial zinc anodes can be used in the pool or skimmer to draw the corrosive effects away from other metal surfaces. Salt can also damage the soft rubber used in pump seals and O-rings. Salt-resistant pump shaft seals are available, and O-rings can be protected with pool lube.

In addition to testing your Free Available Chlorine, pH, Total Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Cyanuric Acid levels regularly, saltwater pools should be tested with salt test strips throughout the pool season. Salt does not evaporate, but is diluted by rain and fill water added to the pool, or when lowering the water level during backwashing or for winterization.

As previously mentioned, saltwater pools are not chlorine-free, nor are they chemical-free. A saltwater pool is a chlorinated pool, but with an alternative delivery system. As such, you will still need other pool chemicals when using a salt chlorine generator.

Sanitizers: Most of your water sanitization will be taken care of with your chlorine generator. It can be helpful, however, to keep a small supply of chlorine tabs or granular chlorine on hand in the event of problems with the pump, filter, plumbing, or the salt cell itself. Salt pool owners also often use granular pool shock for oxidation, algae removal, or routine superchlorination. Many chlorine generators have a "Shock" feature. However, they are slow to act, and using this function creates a heavy demand on the salt cell, which may shorten its lifespan.

Balancers: Just like any pool, you need to pay close attention to pH, Total Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Cyanuric Acid (stabilizer) levels in the pool. Chlorine-tablet-treated pools tend to gravitate towards the low end of the pH and Total Alkalinity scale, while saltwater pools tend to slowly rise in pH level, requiring pH reducer. Saltwater pools are most stable with a pH of 7.4–7.6, and a Total Alkalinity of 80–100 ppm. Most salt system manufacturers recommend a stabilizer level of around 50 ppm. High Calcium Hardness levels have no effect on saltwater pools, but a lower level in the 180-200 ppm range may result in less scale forming on the salt cell plates.

Other: Algaecides and clarifiers may be needed on occasion, as with any other pool. Algaecides are great helper chemicals for chlorine, as it dissolves protective layers on algae, allowing chlorine to penetrate deep into the nucleus. Clarifiers are helpful for pool filters that are undersized, underperforming, or simply not running long enough each day. They can also be helpful after a spring startup or algae cleanup.

Just like any other pool, you will need a good test kit to monitor chlorine and water balance levels. Most importantly, the pH and Free Available Chlorine level should be tested at least once per week. Salt chlorine generators can be set to a certain output level, but increased pool usage and changes in weather or temperature can use more chlorine than the system creates. This is why it's important to test the chlorine level in a saltwater pool often, and adjust the output as needed.

In addition to testing a saltwater pool for pH, Total Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Cyanuric Acid, you also now need to test the salinity level, or the amount of salt in the pool. This is measured in parts per million, or ppm. Many inground units monitor salt level, and some display the salt level or have "Low Salt" indicator lights. Even so, testing with salt test strips is still a good idea, in order to calibrate or double-check the salt sensor readings.